Few things in a capsule wardrobe work quite as hard as denim. It's the fabric we reach for when we don't know what to wear, the dependable foundation of just so many outfits and, depending on the cut, wash and styling, something that can feel entirely different from one day to the next. It's also one of fashion's great levellers: jeans are democratic by nature, but that hasn't stopped designers from returning to them season after season, never seeming to run out of new ways to make an everyday staple feel worthy of the runway. So what better time to take a look at what the spring/summer 2027 collections have in store for us in terms of denim trends?
After all, spring/summer is often where denim gets to have a little more fun. Whilst autumn/winter tends to bring us back to familiar cuts, traditional washes and the sort of jeans that make sense with a good coat, the warmer months give designers room to experiment. And S/S 27 has been particularly interesting in this respect. Looking through the collections, I was struck by just how many different directions denim was taking. There were the expected classics, of course, but also jeans that appeared to have been sliced apart and sewn back together, coated in high-shine finishes, covered in flowers or distressed to within an inch of their lives.
Some of the results were decidedly full throttle. Micro shorts barely passed as shorts at all, embellishments were applied with admirable abandon and even the most familiar denim jacket was given a reason to feel exciting again. Elsewhere, designers found ways to make jeans feel new without radically changing them: a deeper indigo wash—rather unexpected for spring—an interesting proportion or a simple combination of denim and a perfectly quaffed striped shirt was sometimes all it took.
That, in my opinion, is what makes this season feel so refreshing. Denim isn't being pushed in one definitive direction, and there's no suggestion that you need to jilt a pared-back wardrobe in favour of something more extravagant; the collections made room for both. You could embrace a little more personality through a floral print or an unusual fastening, or stick to the jeans you know you love and give them a slightly different context. See what I mean about democratic?
There's also something reassuring about seeing designers continue to find new ideas in a fabric we all know so well. At times, fashion can feel as though it's revisiting the same silhouettes and styling tricks on a loop, but these collections offered plenty of evidence that denim still has room to surprise, inspire and even shock us. Granted, some ideas will be easier to take into your own wardrobe than others, but that's part of the fun. From subtle updates to looks that demand a little more commitment, these are the denim trends that stood out to me (or screamed for my attention) for S/S 27.
12 Denim Trends to Know, Wear and Name-drop in 2027
1. Reworked Construction
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A seam is usually one of the least interesting things about a pair of jeans. It's there because it needs to be, running neatly down the leg without asking for much attention. For S/S 27, however, designers are making a feature of the construction itself, twisting seams, extending fastenings and rethinking the placement of details we've become accustomed to seeing in the same place. At Balenciaga, chunky seams travel around the leg rather than following the usual straight line, giving slouchy, vintage-wash jeans a slightly wonky, grungy feel. Eckhaus Latta used a similar approach to exaggerate the leg shape, whilst Ottolinger experimented with a sliced-up waistband and asymmetric zip fastening.
It's not just the seams that are being reconsidered, either. Take Stella McCartney’s illusion of two pairs of jeans layered over one another, with a lighter wash appearing to sit unbuttoned over a darker base. Elsewhere, designers played with contrasting denim around the waistband and fly, or moved pockets to unexpected places. It's a surprisingly broad trend, but the common thread is a desire to make the construction itself the focal point. Some interpretations are decidedly out there, but an asymmetric fastening or an unusual seam placement can be a subtler way to embrace the idea. Either way, it makes you look at the humble pair of jeans a little differently.
2. The Capri Comeback
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Capri trousers have been working their way back into the conversation for a few seasons now, but denim might be the version that finally makes them feel less intimidating. After so much focus on wide, baggy and barrel-shaped jeans, a close-cropped style is a fairly bold change of direction; make no mistake, there's nowhere for the silhouette to hide, but the familiarity of denim makes it easier to get your head around than a more overtly tailored or technical version.
The runways offered plenty of interpretations, from the ruched, relaxed proportions at MM6 to hedonistic embellishment at Roberto Cavalli, where feathers, beads and diamantes made the capri feel distinctly un-shy. Ganni added a sweeter note with ruffles at the knee, whilst Ottolinger played with curved seams and an asymmetric fastening. In terms of styling, I'd be inclined to keep things easy: a roomy shirt, an undone collar, a silk scarf or a simple V-neck will stop the silhouette feeling too studied. Add a heel and a blazer, and there's also a case for taking denim capris into the evening.
3. Skirting the Issue
Skirts were one of the bigger trend stories across the S/S 27 collections, with knee-length and pencil silhouettes particularly prominent (see Prada, where denim was very much part of that conversation). The difference from the denim skirts many of us remember is the range of shapes and finishes on offer. Rather than relying on the familiar straight cut, designers played with volume, asymmetry, layering and length, giving the piece a lot more personality.
Carven made a convincing case for a dark-blue maxi skirt worn with a matching jacket, a white shirt and simple sandals: an outfit that feels considered without being the least bit complicated. At the other end of the spectrum, Diesel experimented with a draped, asymmetric shape, whilst H&M's button-front skirt, worn open at the thigh and accessorised with belts and knee-high boots, had a more maximalist, '80s-inflected feel. Put simply, the appeal is in the versatility. A denim skirt can feel pared-back, on-trend or pretty, depending on what you wear it with.
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4. Full Bloom
The S/S 27 collections have a notably romantic streak, with floaty fabrics, draping, pleats and sheer layers appearing across the runways. Denim might not be the first fabric you associate with that mood, but designers found plenty of ways to bring the two together. At Acne Studios, painterly roses ran down blue jeans, their almost cracked, old-master quality giving the floral motif a sense of age and texture. Toga went in a more baroque direction with wide-leg denim covered in tapestry-like blooms, whilst other collections favoured embroidered, beaded or hand-drawn botanical designs.
What makes this feel more interesting than a straightforward floral print is the contrast. Denim has an inherent toughness, one that has direct connotations with hard labour, and as such, the prettiness of the decoration often feels all the more striking against it. Lovebirds, for example, paired black-and-white jeans with a fluid, floor-scraping caped top. Elsewhere, florals appeared on skirts, shorts, jackets and coat-like denim pieces, so the idea extends well beyond a statement pair of jeans.
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5. Piece By Piece
As someone who's worked in fashion for almost 16 years, you'd be surprised by just how many times I've seen patchwork denim crop up. So much so that I wondered if it added anything new to the conversation in 2027, regardless of its obvious presence on the runways. Yet somehow the S/S 27 collections managed to offer some interesting takes on the idea.
Rather than simply piecing together scraps of fabric for a deliberately haphazard effect, designers played with larger panels, contrasting washes and carefully considered placements. Gabriela Hearst used stark differences between light and dark denim to make the joins more pronounced, whilst Balenciaga favoured a more tonal approach, with panels that had been cut apart and sewn back together to create a subtler effect.
Placement also made a difference to the silhouette; panels were deliberately positioned at different points down the leg, drawing the eye vertically and exaggerating the length of the jeans, which would frequently pool over shoes. Asymmetric construction added another layer of interest. Either way, the result is a trend that can be as bold or as understated as you want.
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6. The Jacket Reboot
I was recently asked whether denim jackets were “dated”, which is perhaps a sign of how dependable they've become. It’s one of those wardrobe staples that is difficult to imagine ever truly disappearing, but I'll admit that before looking through the S/S 27 collections, I wasn't necessarily excited by the prospect of them, nor have I felt compelled to buy one. That changed fairly quickly. Designers have given the denim jacket enough personality to make it feel like a genuine fashion item for 2027, rather than simply something to throw on when you're still holding out hope you won't have to.
Again, the interpretation was broad. Diesel played with contrasting knitted collars whilst Cecilie Bahnsen added shimmering floral beadwork against a backdrop of faded black. At Aje, unusual, oversized stud buttons down the placket and sleeves gave a sandy-coloured jacket a more sculptural feel, and perhaps more styling bang for your buck if said sleeves are indeed detachable.
These aren't necessarily pieces that demand an entirely new way of dressing; rather, they give a reliable layer a little more character. A denim jacket might never be the most surprising thing in your wardrobe, but this season's versions make a convincing case for giving it a second look.
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7. Denim in Distress
Distressed denim is one of those trends that tends to come back around just when you think you've seen every possible variation of a ripped knee. And yet, for S/S 27, designers found plenty of ways to make jeans look as though they'd lived several lives. At Balenciaga, rips ran from the waistband down towards the thigh and knee, giving the denim the impression of having been caught up in a rather unfortunate encounter with a paper shredder. Dior went for heavily grazed knees and fringed tears, whilst Ralph Lauren paired distressed, yellowed denim with gold heels and a brocade jacket trimmed with faux fur.
The interesting thing is how the distressing has been executed. In some cases, the raw patches and fraying almost become a pattern in their own right, as at Aje, where broad areas of pale, frayed denim created a graphic effect against blue. In others, the contrast comes from styling; a pair of heavily ripped jeans looks all the more striking when worn with something polished, whether that's a tailored blazer or a pretty evening shoe. It's less about recreating head-to-toe '90s grunge and more about giving denim a lived-in quality, even when the rest of the outfit feels considered.
The takeaway: If your jeans look as though they've survived several cage fights—and lost every single one—you're probably on the right track.
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8. The Dark Side
Whilst looking through the collections, I repeatedly had to remind myself which season I was researching. Alongside the leather and darker colour palettes, there was a striking amount of deep indigo and almost-black denim—shades that might traditionally feel more at home in autumn than spring. Area, Carven and Tibi were amongst the designers leaning into darker washes, giving denim a depth that felt noticeably different from the pale blues and sun-faded finishes often associated with the season.
It's a useful reminder that the way we dress no longer has to be dictated by such rigid seasonal rules. Dark denim can work just as well with a white tank and sandals as it can with a chunky knit, and it brings a slightly sharper edge to spring's softer colours. Think butter yellow, cream, beige and pastel shades, all of which look particularly good set against a deeper indigo.
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9. Short Story
If the past few seasons have been all about giving ourselves more room in our jeans, S/S 27 has a rather different proposition. Micro denim shorts were everywhere, with hemlines falling into the hot-pant category, and some pairs looking more like underwear than something you'd traditionally wear out of the house. Diesel took the distressed treatment to extremes, with denim so shredded it looked as though a rottweiler had been using it as a chew toy. Exposed pocket linings, frayed edges and torn hems made even the smallest shorts feel deliberately undone.
The styling helped give the look some after-dark edge. Seven For All Mankind paired tiny shorts with tailored layers and a glimpse of black lace, whilst other designers leaned into lingerie-inspired tops and cinched belts. Indeed, this isn’t necessarily the most straightforward trend to translate into everyday life, and that's rather the point. After seasons of very generous denim, the return of the leg feels like a proper change of pace. You don't have to go quite as far as the runway to get the idea, either: a shorter hemline and a more considered, dressed-up top can bring a little of that energy into your 2027 wardrobe.
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10. Extra Something
There were very little designers who weren't willing to add to a pair of jeans this season. Beads, studs, brooches, lace, feathers and rhinestone-like details all made an appearance, ranging from elaborate, almost costume-like decoration to smaller touches that felt surprisingly easy to take into a real capsule wardrobe. At Dolce & Gabbana, brooches brought an ornate, almost heirloom quality to classic blue denim, whilst other looks leaned into studded, Western-adjacent detailing.
One of the most interesting ideas was the placement of the embellishment. Rather than covering the entire jeans, designers used pocket edges and seams as points of focus. At Stella McCartney, decorative details clustered around the pocket opening, giving a simple pair of vintage-wash jeans a lift without overwhelming them. It's a useful reminder that embellished denim doesn't have to mean going all in; a small detail can be enough to change the feel of a familiar pair. If you're in the mood for something more expressive, however, the runways have given you plenty of permission to go further. The question is really how much decoration you want to live with.
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11. Glossed Over
Turns out, denim doesn't always have to look like denim. For S/S 27, designers played with coated finishes that gave the fabric a high-shine, almost liquid appearance, taking it somewhere far removed from the faded blue jeans we might usually associate with the warmer months. Acne Studios experimented with an acid-like green-brown coating and lace-up sides, whilst Diesel's yellowish finish appeared cracked in places, revealing the blue denim beneath. The effect was almost as though the fabric had been dunked into a coating before forcibly shaped into a pair of jeans. How this will translate to the market, I'm not sure, but I can't wait to find out.
Not every interpretation was quite so dramatic. Gucci's near-black denim had a more restrained sheen, whilst Jonathan Simkhai showed how a glossy finish could feel surprisingly simple when paired with a plain white tank. At Matières Fécales, a mock-croc texture and extra-long, flared legs gave the trend a rebellious feel. It's this range that makes coated denim particularly interesting: it can be high-impact and slightly outlandish, or simply offer a different finish to a familiar silhouette.
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12. Less Is More
After years of quiet luxury dictating the trends, the fashion industry has spent the past couple of years making more room for personality. As a minimalist myself, you might be surprised to hear I'm all for this, as there's only so much one editor can write about suede bags and trench coats!
Since the collections shown in 2025, there's been a much-needed shift towards expressive dressing. And whilst maximalism will certainly have its moment in S/S 27 (case in point: the trends above), designers also took a diplomatic approach by incorporating some clean lines into the equation. This was particularly evident where denim is concerned, because sometimes, the best thing you can do with a good pair of jeans is not much at all.
Calvin Klein's collection leaned into a distinctly '90s sensibility, with straight-leg denim, white blazers, nude tanks and oversized bags that felt effortlessly polished. Gabriela Hearst took a similarly restrained approach, pairing wide-leg jeans with a sharp camel blazer and suede clutch (see what I mean about suede bags?). Elsewhere, striped shirts, denim button-ups and boxy jackets made for the kind of combinations that are easy to imagine wearing on repeat.
What makes these outfits work is the attention to proportion and the pieces around the jeans, rather than statement pieces fighting against each other. A relaxed pair of classic blue jeans with a striped shirt is hardly a radical proposition, but it feels fresh nonetheless.
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